Willi Smith’s Five Most Exemplary Fashion Moments

There’s one man only that’s responsible for modern streetwear fashion as we know it: Willi Smith. The late fashion designer, who had a two-decade career crafting silhouettes and garments that were actually for everyday wear, in comparison to the elevated haute couture that only graced the runways of the time, has undoubtedly changed the way we see fashion forever.

Now, more than 34 years after his untimely death, his legacy, which has unfortunately but not surprising been minimized and under-appreciated, is being celebrated with a one-of-a-kind exhibit at the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Museum in New York City. Gracing the space until Oct. 24, there you’ll be able to see firsthand the apparel that shocked the industry, changed the way the world saw fashion pairings, and set the tone for so many more looks and designers to come.

That’s why ahead, we’ve rounded up five of Smith’s most iconic moments of creation that prove that “streetwear couture” wouldn’t be a fraction of what it is today without his influence.

By Blake Newby ·June 15, 2021June 15, 2021 01The Everyday TrenchHis spring 1986 collection proved a particular standout with models wearing different variations of a casual trench paired with equally as forgiving pants and skirts. Proving that loose silhouettes could and should exist in the same space.

WilliWear Spring 1986 Presentation, 1985, Courtesy of Fashion Institute of Technology|SUNY, FIT Library Special Collections and College Archives, New York, NY, USA; © Peter Gould 02The Micro-MiniBefore Smith, the cropped skirt had never been see as everyday wear. However, pairing it with a pair of tights, casual top, and even more casual hoodie, the trailblazer proved that anything could be dressed down.

Getty Images – Bettmann / Contributor 03Avant Garde MasterpiecesThe name of Smith’s game was comfort, and that even came with dresses. Whether cropped or long, his eye set the tone for countless unconstructed silhouettes to come — dozens, we still see today.

Willi Smith for WilliWear, Spring 1986 Presentation, Photographed by Peter Gould, 1985. Courtesy of Fashion Institute of Technology | SUNY, FIT Library Special Collections and College Archives; Peter L. Gould / Images 04The Modern BodysuitBridging the gap between what could be considered swimwear and what could be considered ready-to-wear, Smith’s creation set forth the idea of bodysuits such as these being worn for more than just a day at the beach.

(Photo by Anthony Barboza/Getty Images) 05LBD…. But Make It CozyCosting a mere $22, Smith turned the little black dress from something that implied high-end parties, to a clothing item that was fitting for even the most casual of occasions. With a horses hoe-cut neckline with a polyester fabric, the market had never seen anything like it.